![]() If you’ve got the hang of photoshop and want to make your gifs look even better use avisynth: make sure to choose the “every frame” option for smoother gifs.if you want to save space on your computer, save the photos in.to capture frames using potplayer, just press ctrl+g!.kmplayer is a completely broken and outdated video player. 60fps gifs: frames should be 0.04 secondsģ0fps gifs: frames should be 0.05 secondsįor capturing frames a good video player that’s easy to use is potplayer.add a color balance to make the coloring more natural (image>adjustment layer>color balance).don’t use textures unless absolutely necessary because they can bring down the quality of the gif as well.if things are too light or dark i use these textures as soft light x x.as for coloring to bring down the noise in your gif, go to (layer>adjustment layer>selective color) and go down to the white, neutral, and black sections and mess around with the black slider option.use topaz clean after smart sharpening every frame (different settings suggestions).mess around with the smart sharpen settings and the different types of blurs you can use smart sharpen, gaussian blur, then smart sharpen.use the correct tumblr dimensions (i always use 540x298 or 268x170).Thank u! here are a few things you can do: If targeted for a printer, at least with the P800, I don't see the products doing very much.Question from Anonymous How do you sharpen your gifs so nicely without ruining the quality? Awesomeness! If it is targeted for a screen, either product will produce noticeable results. So the outcome will depend on the target of your image. There was virtually no difference between any of the images when actually printed on paper. The interesting thing that came out of that process is that the printer was unable to hold that detail, even viewing through a loop. I then printed the images using on my Epson P800 using Premium Glossy Paper with the highest quality settings. I prefer the DxO because it would also save me constant adjustments for Exposure, Contrast, Saturation & Clarity. Looking at these photos on a monitor, both DxO and DeNoise AI produced a substantially better image, and images that would have required quite a bit of effort through PS or LR. Also note that the watermark from the demo version makes it difficult to compare around the bird's head. I probably could have setup a pre-set to make this adjustment automatically, but didn't. I found that using DeNoise AI, I continually needed to make these adjustments to approximate the original colors. I probably also needed to increase saturation as well but didn't. In order to approximate the other two photos, I needed to increase exposure and contrast in CR. The image on the right has been processed through DeNoise AI. The feather detail has been retained along with substantial noise reduction. You can see that the background has been smoothed out. The middle photo has been run through DxO and then brought into PhotoShop, again with out any CR changes. As you can see, it is pretty noisy, both in the background and in the feather detail. It was taken with a Z6 200-500 mm lens at f/5.6, 1/1600 sec, ISO 8000 which produced the photo on the left, unprocessed without any CR (camera raw) adjustments. Here is a summary of what I've found evaluating the two products. I'll continue to evaluate the two packages, but just wondering if anyone else if seeing what I see as the differences between the two products? ![]() Photo in, photo out with out much effort on the part of the photographer. It seems to be a fully automated product. But then the DXO product doesn't seem to allow any changes in strength of the effects it creates. The sharpening seemed to be a little less harsh as well. The DXO product lacked any artifacts that were visible at 500%. When I pixel peeped at 500% the detail that I was seeing at 100% seemed to be made up from created artifacts in the files. Now when I came to compare these two packages side by side, I noticed that Topaz seemed to keep just a tad more detail in the images. These two packages both did better than anything I was able to do on my own. Well, having taken three photos that I did a lot of work on and running them through the default settings of the above two software packages (demo versions), I'm now convinced that I can't. I've always considered that I could get the noise out of my photos and sharpen them better than any automated software. I've been evaluating Topaz DeNoise AI and Topaz Sharpen vs the new release of DXO Pure Raw vs my photos.
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